Matt Preston licks plate. Photo stolen with full disregard for copyright and fair use from the Masterchef website.

It’s pretty impressive how Matt Preston the chummy and ever so slightly chubby Melbourne food writer grew into the huge Masterchef’s Matt Preston and brand. And just grew. And grew. And grew to the point that Woman’s Day is running a splash on him with no information whatsoever about concerns over his health after eating 97 portions of osso bucco risotto.

A big man and I were guessing the other day how much he must weight – possibly 150kg, even 180kg perhaps. That’s a lot of weight making him about two to three times the size of a plump girl*. That’s like Gary plus George and something else large and heavy, like my head.

Let me make this clear. Matt is a really nice bloke. I like him and nobody can fail to. Pompousness aside. But I’m writing this as a favour to him. And you.

There’s a massive queue for Matt Preston’s endorsement from his “cravatalicious” Handee Ultra paper towels to Richard-Dawkins -knows what else. What Matt may not know is that he is being groomed to be the next face for Type II Diabetes. I kid you not.

It creeps up on you whether you are moderately plump to the morbidly obese. And among the food writing and blogging community I think we know where we all stand on this scale.

All food writers have the problem of staying slim. From jogging to cycling and swimming some try and do something about it. Others just give up and seemingly eat and drink more. Greedy bastards.

Dawkins-knows how a writer such as Gourmet Traveller’s Pat Nourse stays so svelte given his food reviewing duties. Perhaps it’s because of good genes, youth, self-control or, as last time I saw him, a girlfriend to exercise him. Or a tumble dryer load of all of the above.

I try and walk a lot. I ride a bike to meetings when the weather permits. And have a girlfriend who helps. Plus there’s plenty of opportunity for masturbation both metaphorically and physically. I also eat plenty of fruit and veg, small amounts of protein, lots of nuts. And aside from the odd Twix, only eat apples and nuts and drink water between meals.

My main vice is alcohol, despite which I’ve lost maybe 6 kilos this year down to 102.7kg before and, ahem, 101.1kg after. I’d like to drop another 5 or 10 but know there is no hope whatsoever of regaining my six-pack of youth. (Note to self: stop getting so pissed).

There’s something else you can do when faced with a ten-course degustation: just eat half of what is on your plate. In fact do that every time you eat out and there is a good chance you will avoid becoming a fat bastard.

Diabetes has been on my mind since January 2009 when my mum suffered a stroke caused by her Type II and her dotty alterative methods of handling it instead of taking her proper medication.

In her early thirties my mum had a waist that a young Elizabeth Taylor would have been proud of. In her forties she started to spread out. By her fifties, a widow, she had cankles and had trouble lumbering up hills.

Then in her seventies, one afternoon she nodded off reading a book. When she awoke she was confused. She didn’t recognize my stepfather. She forgot what words were used to refer to different objects.

She recovered but not fully, from a once brilliant natural Elizabeth David bred cook to microwaving ready meals in the oven. Or just putting a bowl of rice and water in the oven to make risotto. It’s very sad.

Nowadays, depending on her medication she’s pretty good but can be up and down. But she has a very high risk of another stroke.

If anything good came out of this it is that she stopped boring me about what she’d just watched on Jamie Oliver (she lives in the UK) the night before.

This is what happens with Type II Diabetes. Like I said, it creeps up on you. Even if you are fat now and lose weight the damage is done, a bit like cigarettes do to your lungs.

Type II diabetes is a modern disease caused by being too greedy and fat. It eats away insidiously at your cardio vascular system. That’s your arteries, veins and capillaries.

One day you’ll cut your finger in the kitchen and it won’t heal. No, it’s not infected. This is what Type II Diabetes does; it makes wounds slow to heal. Before long you’ll have carbuncles on your body.

Then you’ll be wanting to shag your beautiful girlfriend or wife and your cock will be limp. Zilch. Nothing there. Even, Madame Lash, a blowjob or a threesome with the neighbour’s labradoodle won’t do it for you.

Then your kidneys will become a bit dodgy. If that happens every bit of protein you consume contributes to their demise. That means you will be rationed pork. And duck. Any meat.

And extremities will turn black, just like in the anti-smoking ads.If they don’t drop off they’ll need to be chopped off. Only last night my mum was complaining that her leg was dodgy -apparently she lost the use of it for a while after her first stroke (although I can’t always be sure what she tells me nowadays in reliable).

And finally, those bits of your cardiovascular system that we see in the smoking ads will start breaking off and coursing around your body. Stroke.

If Matt Preston has any sense he will turn this endorsement opportunity down. Or try lap band surgery.

But as Jedro74 said in response to my tweets on this subject:

“a slim Matt Preston wouldn’t be right, like a slim Mikey Robbins isn’t. Then again, the latter was never right.”

*Term and conditions apply. Depends on height, size of frame and muscle mass.

Note: I’m not sponsored by Diabetes Australia but if you think you are at risk check out their site. Or go see a doctor and have a blood test. I’ve been meaning to but I’m a bit scared to be honest.

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Izakaya Den

What do you say to a celebrity when you meet them? It’s a question raised by the Freakanomics guys and what that I often face. When Rachael Griffiths pats my gimpy dog, or my grumpy dog tries to savage one of Guy Pearce’s Basenji, I just make polite conversation and try and treat them normally (although if I see Hughsy jogging down my street I’ll shout “maaaaaaate”).

But more to the point what should a celebrity say to you should they come to talk to somebody on your table at, say, Izakaya Den which since opening has been pitched as one of the hottest joints in town with the Australian media seeming to loose all critical ability when it comes to owner Simon Denton, the son of a famous Melbourne architect.

In Fred Scepisi’s case ignore the other three on the table and don’t even say “hello”. Ditto his son, whose name eludes me, who does a pretty accurate impression of a knob.

It’s not that I particularly want to talk to the director or his son. But there is something called manners. And I put common courtesy in the same bracket as keeping your g-string tucked away rather than riding half way up your back, not scratching your balls in front of the new Prime Minister Julia Gillard, and correctly using a knife and fork. (Wearing tracky pants and scratching your arse in public is obviously okay)

Anyway, in addition to famous directors, their tossing sons, and cheffy cokeheads, Izakaya Den is the kind of place that also attracts the hip, the wannabees and the well-off squares.

The difficult thing is to find the place (down the stairs to Chiodo and left; enter despite it looking closed) and then get in, as there is a no booking policy apart from at lunchtimes or groups of five to 20. You probably want to arrive before 7pm or after 9pm to find on table. This Thursday night, sometime after 8pm we are promised a table in 35, which ended up taking nearly an hour.

It wasn’t a bad wait, but the holding area, where you can also eat and drink, is loud, and in winter cold.

Izakaya Den is a narrow subterranean corridor of a room flaked on the left by an open kitchen and chunky high Japanese-style tables and stools.

The menus come as attractively wrapped scrolls. Drinks encompass a classy and reasonably but small priced selection of wines, beers and cocktails. But if I were you I’d concentrate on Saki, some of which are exclusive to Izakaya Den. You’ll be paying about $30 for 300ml or $75 plus for something the size of a wine bottle.

And the food? The verdict was a damning “quite nice really”. But not quite as good as when it opened from those who’d been here after it first opened.

And it was pleasant. A steamed sole was lovely and delicate. No more or less than you’d expect.

The pictured, a special of tuna sandwiched in corn chips and the others wrapped in radish, was marred by the texture of cat food but the tasted good.

I liked the barbequed tongue, although one of the party found the texture too much like, um, tongue. There’s a lovely eggplant dish, salads…all sorts of Japanese stuff, of which sliced, barbequed octopus, with lovely charred suckers seemed to be the most popular.

For any criticisms I make, you should know I gorged myself. I ate as much as I could and enjoyed it. As I said everything at “Izakaya Den” was perfectly nice, a good meal that has been overhyped.

Unlike Simon Denton’s other restaurant Verge which is tired, try-hard, pretentious and probably in need of a long overdue overhaul, I like this place.

It’s a great place to drop into. But to secure a table time your visit carefully. Or book for a larger group.

And this is the point where I should make a few announcements:

First, I’ve decided to cut loose from producing the video blog for St Ali as it threatened my independence as a reviewer for the Melbourne Coffee Guide book and to my journalism. I shouldn’t have taken it on at all given my position and I’d like to assure all cafes my reviews will be fair and unbiaised. You wouldn’t believe the rigour of this year’s process with all the judges receiving taste calibration and training.

Second, although I mainly write here so does my girlfriend Adriane on stuff like tomatoes and olives now so it’s worth checking the byline of the writer nowadays.

Third, yes I am fucking back and when I get a new generation iPhone, the photography should improve.

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OLIVE JAR

Three years ago I went on a boozy winery tour with a busload of artist mates. Somehow along the way I managed not only to buy two small olive trees, but also two magnificent French oak wine barrels to plant them in. Once I had persuaded the bus driver to let me manoeuvre the barrels onboard, I also had to convince the other passengers to help me load them off and back on at every winery so we could exit and re-board the bus. Let’s just say I can do without another rendition of ‘roll out the barrels’.

Three years later, planted in their barrels in inner city Melbourne, my olive trees have fruited madly. Perhaps it’s the West-facing position, combined with the heat-retaining brick wall behind them, but these trees have done their best at an astonishingly early age.

Urban olive tree

So what to do with them? Fortunately during a sobering coffee the next morning, the proprietor of the olive tree shop gave me some simple advice, which I followed.

First I picked my olives as they began to change colour and soften. Not too soft, just a bit of give when you squeeze them. I then made up a salt solution of 100g salt to 1 litre of water. Some recipes suggest making a cut in each olive, pricking them with a fork, or smashing them with the bottom end of a beer bottle to hasten the curing, but I am continually time-poor and am happy to let them be. Over the next few weeks I changed the salt solution roughly every week or ten days, and the olives gradually darkened, while the salt drew out the bitterness. I kept this up until the bitterness disappeared, and left them in clean water for a few more days to remove more salt.

Cat in an olive tree

Once the bitterness is removed it’s time to bottle. I chose to put mine in sterilised glass jars with a fresh salt solution of I part vinegar to 4 parts brine. I threw in a few dried chillies, garlic, peppercorns and a couple of bay leaves before filling the jars almost to the top, and then topped them up to the brim with olive oil to seal them. There are a few expensive stoneware olive-curing pots on the market, which have an inner perforated disc to keep the olives submerged. The important thing is to fill the containers to the top to exclude any air, otherwise bacteria can grow. Stored in a cool dark place the olives will improve with time and should keep for at least a year.

I like to marinate my olives in a small bowl with a few glugs of olive oil, some fresh garlic, rosemary, peppercorns and dried red chillies, and leave them for a few days before eating. And then crack open another bottle with my mates. Just don’t sing that song.

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First truffle of the season

First truffle of the season

It was an urgent call to action the other Friday from Prahran Market’s Twitter stream:
“Stop press! Black WA truffles in an hour ago! These were in the ground this time yesterday! Damian puke (sic) mushrooms”
Pretty soon I was on the tram from South Melbourne to pick up the car in St Kilda. The tram terminating [...]

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This is why I blog with knobs off

Smeg's crappy knobs

This is why I blog. To tell people stuff that they won’t find in the newspapers or glossy magazines, like the time I told you that expensive Miele cooktops are crap simply because they are badly designed.
Now thanks to a house sitting stint, I can reveal that Smeg cooktops are just as bad. The problem [...]

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Breaking the coffee (and road) rules

So there we are, driving along minding our own business in Sal’s Fiat 500. Well, we’d reversed out of Flinders Lane illegally right next to the Police Station and then driven through the bollards into Little Collins Street. A traffic warden has the gall to bollock us.
Yes, I’m afraid my sound still isn’t up to [...]

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New service: You can book restaurants here now

Jackie from Eating with Jack remembers when she first met me. She was front of house at Mrs Jones in Carlton maybe five or six years back and I wasn’t in the reservations book. Being a pro she managed to squeeze us in.
She later told me that’s often what happens when a chef or kitchen [...]

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Tomato season means it’s time to make passata

Bottling passata

There’s a rumour that Melbourne hospitals lay on extra staff in the Emergency Department at this time of year.
Yes, it’s tomato season and given our vast migrant population, there will invariably be a few home-bottling and canning disasters. Every Italian family will be firing up boiling vats of tomatoes in the backyard, and making a day [...]

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Food blogger photo exhibition this week at St Ali

SBS Food blogger photo exhibition

Running until 28 March, an exhibition of 40 of the best food photos from blogs sponsored by SBS Food is running in the warehouse opposite St Ali in Yarra Place, South Melbourne. Its launch on Sunday night also was the celebration of the end of the first food bloggers’ conference in Australia, Eat.Drink.Blog.2010 (which you [...]

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A laneway coffee festival is born

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In addition to my journalism, now I am blogging for a living over at Ad News and for St Ali where I’m producing a series of video blogs looking at various aspects of coffee culture and some of the geekery behind it.
Cafe and coffee culture in Melbourne is going crazy right now and the new [...]

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Enter the food blogger photo exhibition, sponsored by SBS Food

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Cocktails at Der Raum
I haven’t been posting because I’ve been busy trying to pull together a few sponsors for the Food Bloggers’ Conference and finally have pulled the last big one in.
And it is great news. SBS Food has come onboard to sponsor/partner a one week photo exhibition of food and drink bloggers’ photos [...]

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What makes an award winning food blog?

A While back Stewart White from the The Food Media Club, which is renaming itself Australian Association of Food Professionals, called me to talk about launching an award for food blogs as an addition to the Food Media Club Awards. And finally he’s made it happen with the sponsorship of Australian Pork, and I attended [...]

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No, I’m not involved with Golden Plates Awards

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I was surprised when I received an email from Pam Jewson asking me to suggest people who might like to be judges for the Golden Plate Awards as we have history. I didn’t reply. I was even more surprised to hear from somebody who had been contacted who said the Golden Plate Awards were using [...]

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Vietnamese BBQ makes a perfect perch

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There’s a bad joke among old skool strawberry nosed newspaper sub editors when training newbies. “Fresh fish sold here” is the sign above the fish shop. “Fresh” can be removed because of course it’s fresh. “Here” because that’s obvious. It’s a shop, so lose the “sold”. And the “fish” because you can smell it a [...]

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Menu for hope Asia Pacific winners 2010

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Exciting! The results of our sixth annual Menu for Hope – with the help of two hundred bloggers, two hundred and four items on our raffle list, and in the span of just over two weeks, we raised US$78,898 (that’s about AUD85,154) in support of the UN World Food Program. That’s in a year [...]

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