Merde! I forgot some links and I’ve opened as can of worms here. Huguenots, Bourbons…religious wars and bad French.
Several regional dishes were planned but a late night meant an unexpected demand from J (avec a hangover) for steak au frites avec sauce béarnaise. Actually, she wanted a steak haché or probably a royale with cheese, but I’m a fascist and I’m cooking for IMBB23 over at Cucina Testa Rossa.
Although the origins may be obscure they are attributed to a sauce made for King Henry IV of France, the first of the Bourbon kings of France who was born in Béarne.
Béarn no longer exists but was on the border with Spain in the Pyrénéés and, before you fall asleep, was part of the Kingdom of Aquitaine.
The sauce, however, is as popular as ever. It was invented for the opening of a restaurant in Saint-Germain-en-Laye near Paris, Le Pavillon Henri IV.
I’ve always had a gift for making these eggyolk-based emulsions. They simply take the time, effort and the sort of attention given to a risotto. That means you never leave it alone.
First grab a good handful (perhaps two if your hands are small) of tarragon, a fresh bayleaf, ideally chervil (at a push parsley), a couple of sprigs of thyme, a decent sized glass of white tarragon vinegar (you can bulk this out with white wine), at least a teaspoon of crushed white peppercorns and three or four sliced shallots.
Boil and reduce to a couple of tablespoons.
Put two egg yolks in a bain marie. Add the reduction and a knob of butter.
Whisk in and gradually add about 200g – you’ll need to use judgement here. Just keep whisking in little bits and add some salt to taste.
Griddle a couple of porterhouses (sirloin), rest for five to ten minutes while you grab some frites from McDonalds.
Cut off the grizzly fatty bits and feed the big cat, Uncle Monty (sound), who awaits his Weekend Cat Blogging debut.
Slice and arrange on the plate, spoon over sauce, add chips.
We drink with a wine from another little known outpost of France, a Clos Pierre Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley. It’s sort of a Burgundy made by the stark bollock naked winemaker, by Burgundy veteran Pierre Naigon.
Sweet.
Food fascist
1. Porterhouse tastes better than poofy fillet.
2. Don’t leave the pan for Christ’s sake!
3. Safeway and other supermarkets please stock chervil for my last minute supplier. On second thoughts I’ll plant some.
4. McDonald’s chips really are the best. Don’t even think about oven chips or cooking your own (giant railway sleeper type chips are a another matter, dish and country).
5. Avoid salad with this one.
6. Wonder how and why the cat became known as Uncle Monty.
7. Demand more booze.
Tagged with: IMBB23 + French, weekend cat blogging
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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }
I agree sirloin all the way.
So… how did Uncle Monty get his name?
Are you familiar with Withnail and I?
Uncle Monty has very discriminating tastes!
Despite the blatant food facism, I have to agree with you on the fillet/porterhouse debate BUT give me a ribeye or flatiron any time over a porterhouse ;p
We travel the steak au frites route, but always get off at the pepper sauce stop, something about lashings of a cream or butter sauce that goes so well with a prime piece of meat. For us, we use the fillet with the economy name, Scotch. Maccas chips, you’re kidding me. Nice as they are, nothing beats home made.
Come on are you serious about making chips at home, and all that smoke and left over oil/fat from frying. It’s too much hassle. What do you do with those left over pints of oil?
We only get smoke from grilling our steak, if the oil is smoking it’s too hot. We use peanut oil, which is stable at frying temperatures, then we strain, store and reuse. Our chips only have three ingredients – potato,oil and salt; maccas can’t say that, in fact they are being sued for not revealing all….if you are a celiac or vegetarian, you may not want to eat the chips. I guess the hassle factor depends on your point of view, I find it easier and quicker to peel, chip and fry a potato, than I do to get in the car and drive to maccas.
If you live with a food facist. He might make you WALK up to Maccas in the DARK all by yourself and purchase said fries
Hmmmmm
If you live with a food fascist you vill obey ze orders… unless you can make béarnaise.
Tankeuptaco, maybe one day I will try but for now I just don’t have the room for the chip pan and can’t be bothered with the hassle of storing the oil. I will admit, hower, to baking julienned spuds in the oven with olive oil, pepper and salt.