Taxi: In the belly of an architect

Kingfish usu-zukuri

Every item of food that I have eaten at Taxi (Federation Sq, cnr Flinders St & Swanston St, Melboune +61 3 9654 8808) has been a masterpiece in presentation. I’d go as far as describing most dishes as architectural masterpieces.
Whether or not the building is an architectural masterpiece is a moot point. Part of the controversial Federation Square complex, the building has featured in Wallpaper*.
We decide to walk up to the restaurant on the first floor. Our aperitif is the whiff of disinfectant from the mezzanine lavatory; next time the lift.
Upon entering I am struck by two trays containing some 14 pairs of designer sunglasses. It turns out these are not the jetsam of rich patrons, but props to stop visitors being blinded by the evening setting sun.
Fortunately ,we are here for lunch looking down at the muddy brown squirm that threads through Melbourne, the Yarra River. I do notice, however, what looks like retrofitted rubber draught excluders on the building’s extensive louvres. Pity.
Taxi has an extensive wine list. Today we are restrained and have a glass of Roederer champagne each for $19.50, a half bottle of sancerre at $35 and a half of the excellent Paringa Estate 2003 pinot noir for $40.
Taxi is a strange fusion, seemingly part Italian, and part Japanese. For capaccio read kingfish usu–zukuri, topped by caviar. As a starter this was perfection and a bargain at $20.

At $3 more the crayfish gyoza (ravioli?), although beautifully presented was less successful with little subtlety to what seemed to be an overcooked waste of premium cray meat.

The pork hock ($35) is large cylinder was crisp on the outside and succulent and melting in the middle. It was perfectly matched to the accompanying Vietnamese salad and that sauce that is addictive as crack cocaine, hoisin.
My criticism is that the artichoke puree was redundant overshadowed by the spicy, salty flavour of the hoisin.
J’s duck with plum sauce ($36.50) was okay. The meat succulent but the skin not crispy as advertised. Personally, I preferred to hack this dish, simply making that heavenly match of duck and hoisin.

Pudding was wonderful (both $16.50). The perfectly risen peach soufflé was perfect.

The panna cotta with assorted fruits is a masterpiece in design and flavour.
Shame about the building’s practicalities because it looks stunning. But I will be back to taste more, specifically the sushi/sashimi menu and the extensive list of saki.

* The magazine in your bin