Hip SOS hits the sustainable mark

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We’ve had seasonal, organic and fair trade, now sustainable and ethical is the hottest thing on the menu in Melbourne. That’s sustainable and ethically harvested fish, vegetables and no meat on the menu whatsoever.
Restaurateur, Paul Mathis, the vegetarian behind local restaurants Taxi and Chocolate Buddha in Federation Square and Soul Mama in the St Kilda Sea Baths is taking the hairy jumpers (and armpits) out of that whole green thing.
That’s his thing matching cutting edge design, food, fashion and location. This time its called SOS (Level 3, Melbourne Central, 211 La Trobe St, Melbourne +61 3 9654 0808)
It’s an unlikely setting. Rise up two escalators. Up past, fast food joints including McDonalds and up towards popcorn land of the cinema.
Finally, we arrive at the third floor of a shopping centre known as Melbourne Central. There’s nothing particularly special about this place apart from a historic shot tower being the centerpiece under a large dome. Oh, and I shouldn’t forget the faux English pub, a sushi train and a South African chicken joint, a pizza place and another bar looking over chain stores.
SOS, though shoulder to shoulder with these joints, chose to shun its cousins. There is no glass in its entrance, but a solid wall and half a dozen or so fake birch trunks. The door is solid and slides open.

SOS entrance corridor.

A long corridor flanked by more Birch trunks is revealed. It appears to be a dead-end. But take a sharp left and duck through the curtains and you enter an oasis. A stunning room of blond ply (I assume it’s made with sustainable glue) and concrete and trendy shit with a large terrace overlooking the impressive classical State Library of Victoria.
To the right is the restaurant area, three communal white varnished concrete tables.
The chef is Richard Momesso, recently of Il Bacaro, one of my favourite Italians, in Little Collins Street.
To date no review has yet been published in the old-fashioned media so we have elbow room to spare. I have no preconceptions part from the fact that I won’t be eating the endangered Patagonian Toothfish (often presented as Sea Bass).
J, who’ve I’ve invited on this “date” has preconceptions though.
“Sounds ridiculous. The food better be good or I’ll be really pissed-off,” she barks. And as our sustainable (?) tram nears she becomes more agitated as I describe the shared tables and she realizes I’m only taking her out so I can blog it.
If you can’t wait until the end I can reveal SOS is good. Very good.

First cocktails, a punchy classic martini ($23) and a Mojito ($14). Bread is offered through the meal.
I start with two Oysters with tangerine granita. J, who doesn’t eat oysters, is offered granita on it’s own. The ice and citrus marries with the oyster giving a fresh out of the ice-cold sea taste.
A starter sized portion of Northern Territory mud crab with spaghetti and some sort of thistle ($17) is sublime, if not a little large. J’s fresh Spring Bay scallops (they are in season) with a ragu of artichokes peas and parsnips ($16) are a tasty twist and works.
I could go on but will finish with the baby Murray cod with an almond crust $29.50 and worth it). The fish is extremely rare in Australian restaurants, let alone rivers. It melts and the crust lifts the fresh fish to another level.
There is a well priced selection of wines (we chose a Miceli Iolanda pinot grigio 2004 from the local Mornington Peninsula at $30).
The entrance to SOS at first gave me a weird on. But this restaurant offers excellent food and value. The staff are helpful and even offered to email me details of the varnish usded on the concrete tables for my kitchen top.
Git SOS try, quickly before word gets out.

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