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The true test of quality of a good restaurant is it’s ability to cater for a a crowd. I’m talking about 100 or so people in one room all expecting to be fed at the same time. And so it was unexpected to be served such excellent wild barramundi at Comme (7 Alfred Place, Melbourne +61 3 9631 4010).
Comme one of those cool joints hidden down an alleyway. It occupies the space that housed Mietta’s, a legend in Melbourne’s restaurant history. Mietta O’Donnell, who died in a car crash in 2001, had rock star status here as a restaurateur and even ran her own eponymously named restaurant guide.
This event was to celebrate winemaker John Vickery’s 51 consecutive vintages and ten years at Richmond Grove. Vickery is Australia’s Mr Riesling. The 2005 Richmond Grove Limited Release Watervale Riesling is amazing for it’s citrus zest. But it was the 1998 – the aged ones always get me – version of this drop that was the stunner with the citrus marrying with the scent of Asian herbs (although that could have been from my starter). I may even have had a second glass.
Wild barramundi
The wild barramundi, served with an olive oil mash, sauce vierge, saffron and mussels was cooked to perfection. The texture and flavour was what simply cannot be achieved with the farmed version of the fish.
I also thought I was fed up with pork and duck after my Golden Plate experience. But what I was over was bad pork and duck. In the Thai salad of tiger prawns, sweet pork and green mango the pork sat there in the background content to play a supporting role. It was just as it should be.
The pan-fried scallops came with a crispy duck confit and sauce bordelaise.
Food fascist
Farmed Barramundi may be “sustainable” but their texture and muddy flavour are bloody awful.
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{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
totally agree on the farmed vs wild barramundi
Mate, looks like we’re channeling each other, this combo was my pick for one of the five things to eat before I die.
I agree with you on the farmed barra, but there is also some awful wild barra getting around too. We had a piece of wild that was tough as old boots. The fish supplier replaced it and said he would be careful about which size he ordered - it seemed the bigger fillets could be a bit dodgy.
Cheers Jules.
tankeduptaco, I’ve noticed that we seem to be on the same plane quite a lot. Could it be some pyschic St Kilda connection. Bollocks! It’s just we both have excellent taste.