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Now I really do know the meaning of green papaya salad at the Srassrang View Restaurant near Angkor Wat. You’ve been working in the fields all day – or as I have cycling 40km along hot dusty roads. Your mouth is dry, your mind weak and the body is tired.
Green papaya has everything you need. First the finely chopped/ grated papaya refreshes then the chilli kicks in and releases the endorphins that will keep you going. Protein comes in the form of small prawns (shrimp) helped along with limes and salty fish sauce. So powerful are these endorphins that they counteract the effects of two tall cold bottles of beer.
I’m back and ready to attack large monuments again.
But first I must eat this complimentary dessert. Covered in grated coconut, these rice balls are filled with palm sugar. Bite in and the sweet flavour bursts out into your mouth. I want more.
This little place on the banks of the Sras Srang – the royal bath, which is full of local kids swimming – is pricey but cares about the preparation of it’s food. The deep fried spring rolls are almost in a light batter filled with some (unidentifiable but delicious) meat and herbs.
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Those delicious desserts are named something in Khmer that translates as “cake kills husband” - the story goes that a husband, keen to eat the balls hot of the press, forgot about the lava-hot palm sugar inside. Death ensued. Similar to these are akao (see: http://www.phnomenon.com/index.php/cambodian-food/phnom-penh/akauw/ recipe in comments) - they’re equally good but without the fatal sugar centre.
Cheers Phil, luckily our were at room temperature. I’ll look out for the akao and look forward to seeing you in Phnom Pehn.