One of the things I like about eating out is to be challenged by new food and wine experiences. Some restaurants don’t manage either but Annie Smithers Bistrot in Kyneton manages both. In fact it offers a wine by the glass from a grape that is unique in Australia to a single winemaker, Gapsted.
We’re talking about a Russian grape Saperavi. I enjoyed the wine so much I bought a bottle to take home and later via the web ordered a case.
To date my only knowledge of Russian grapes has amounted to Georgian Champagne. And thanks to Jak, who traveled through communist Russia, I assume that the wine tastes like the food which she says tastes like ants.
But this wine is very different. While the grapes in Russia are meant to have a high acid content they seem to have adapted to life in Australia well. The wine itself is a deep red, nearly as dark as a Shiraz. The taste has some similarities with Cabernet Sauvignon with hints of mint although it predominantly has dried fruit flavours. It tastes much like a mature Christmas cake, a real spiciness (allspice perhaps), but without the sweetness.
On Sunday June 10, the Queen’s Birthday weekend, the winemaker is having a BBQ and shed sale. Could be worth a visit.
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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
I don’t think Gapsted are the only makers of Saperavi.Saperavi is grown in a few pockets up here in the North East. I think it might have originally been planted by Peter Reid, who started the label Symphonia (which is now owned by Sam Miranda wines). I think Sam Miranda still have the Saperavi available. My partner, Jeanette, has made some wine from the Reid fruit to use as a clean skin in our restaurant.
Cheers, Michael
I was going to mention Symphonia as well. I have a bottle of their 2005 Saperavi in the cellar.
I might have to give this a go myself. Have to ask, how was the food at Annie Smithers? Was hoping to make a visit soon.
Michael, thanks for the tip. i should know better than to believe the PR on the bottle.
Matthew, what;’s the Symphonia like? Worth trying I guess if you are cellaring it.
Truffle, Annie Smithers is excellent, restrained French cooking that deomostrateds the chef attention to detail and ingredients and great value. There are some blips in the service though.
Saperavi is also been grown in the Barossa Valley SA. In the southern part Domain Day is producing a popular version. I am growing the variety in the Northern end of the valley in the renouned Koonunga region. I currently have 2 hectares which are being supplied to 2 wineries namely Patritti and Massena. Look out for these brands in the near future.
Jamie, thanks for the tip. I’ll look out for these wines. I’m always interested is escaping from the standard varieties.