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Once upon a time there was a gentleman’s agreement between restaurant reviewers and restaurants. They wouldn’t visit for the first month or so to give them a chance to iron out any kinks in the kitchen or service. But they all seem to have started visiting restaurants earlier in their life cycles.
Today both Stephen Downes in the Herald Sun and John Lethlean in The Age review Nobu which opened in a low key kind of way on 23 July. That means they published their reviews, a 13/20 from Downes and 14/20 from Lethlean, 29 days after opening and must have visited after the joint had been opened for about two weeks.
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I read the review this morning and I have to say I thought it was pretty harsh - as you said Ed, considering they’ve only just opened it would have been nice to let them settle in a bit first.
My sister went to the one in London and couldn’t stop raving about it. The review also sniffed at all the imports from the wine to the fish and commented that it all seemed too formulaic but what do you expect from an international chain of restaurants? That’s why Nobu is so successful and people all over the world want to experience his signature dishes and so be it if the ingredients have to be imported in order to achieve this. Perhaps over the next few months they will include a couple more local dishes and local fish.
Don’t get me started again…
Dont start me either!
I think the traditional print media are in competition with social media now. I mean the first I’ve ever heard of Nobu was from reading your blog Ed, not from the newspapers. Then the other night, before I had read The Age review, I went past Nobu in Crown and really wanted to go in, but my wallet was suffering from eating out the previous night already.
As for being jaded, I guess professional reviewers might get a bit. I think the gloss would come off going to a good restaurant when you do it everyday. I know that I would get sick of eating out if I did it everyday.
Ed, do you know when exactly and where De Niro will be when he comes to Melbourne? If there are no stripping lady pens available, how about bringing an enthusiastic food and movie lover, hint hint. You can say to him “Look at moi, look at moi”.
Goldie, I think he was being parochial. I know local produce is fashionable but that doesn’t negate was Nobu is doing. yes, it is a chain but a very high class one. Perhaps he should leave Melbourne a little more often.
Tim/Steve I wish you would get started.
Thanh, I would take you but I only had an invite for me alone. Watching Ronin right now.
Nobu’s very busy this week: The Australian Gourmet TravellerRestaurant Awards tomorrow night and the Sake barrel ceremony, with De Niro on hand, on Thursday.
Matthew, I keep seeing about the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Awards. I wonder if that is the same as the launch of the restaurant guide which usually comes out towards the end of October. Could it be they’ve brought it out early tocompete with The Age’s and The SMH’s Good Food Guide which should be out befor ethe month’s end.
I went to Nobu on Monday night after reading about it on your blog and I thought the food was great. yes the atmosphere was a bit nightcluby and there were a few hiccups with the service right at the start but it got better and i really enjoyed the different flavours. we really liked the chocolate bento box too. Plus it was cheaper than we spent at flower drum a few months back and the food there is boring compared to nobu (but the service, wow)
whats with the cheap disposable chopsticks though?
I’m not sure, Ed. I’m mainly going off what I’ve read elsewhere; if I remember correctly, it was mentioned in Jane Faulkner’s ‘Cellar Door’ column last week.
And Ran, I agree about the disposable chopsticks. They keep popping up in the most unlikely restaurants: Tempura Hajime, Shira Nui, and now, as you say, Nobu. What’s with that, indeed?
The Gourmet Traveller Restaurant awards were last night at Nobu. I haven’t seen the book yet, only invited guests got one in the ’showbag’.
But a couple of awards are roughly as follows (I was verballed the information so the titles of the awards may be slightly off);
-Vue de Monde, the only Victorian restaurant with three stars
-Pier - Sydney, Best National restaurant (A bit of a dark horse?)
-Rockpool Bar and Grill - Best new restaurant
-Ben Shewry -Attica Melbourne - Best new talent (A bit of a dark horse- but very deserving, Ed. I love Atticas food as well)
A few Age hatted restaurants, were not even invited to the awards last night so they are assuming to have been over looked…
I guess Gourmet is trying to get their book out and about about the same time as the SMH and The Age. Gourmet subscribers are expecting their magazine any day now. Keep an eye to the post box.
Jack
I think the foodblogging community is flattering itself if it really believes print media are rushing to keep up. For the moment at least, I would be very surprised if the readership of foodblogs is sufficient to threaten old media reviewing.
I would imagine that the print reviews are appearing earlier in the life of some establishments because of the general drive for immediate fulfilment in the readership. (Sure, social media could satisfy that demand, but i don’t think it does for most people yet.) Telling the modern print readership that they should wait until an establishment settles is so implausible… And you could ask why social media should feel good for getting in there first — shouldn’t the same criticism apply?
For the most part it seems obvious to me that those here who are passionate about food media, pick up the same threads of ideas for stories and hence write similar, topical items, about our small food and beverage industry. In a small pool there is only so much going on around town which is newsworthy, and overlap is natural.
I don’t think it is a case of who can get over the line first. In the case of Nobu, food media were invited to the soft opening, hence the eruption of early reviews. I also think Melbourne people are becoming quicker on the uptake of new venues, and are curious to learn about the opinions of others asap.
Ultimately, Blogging allows you to lay down immediate thoughts, while traditional media is subject to schedules and media plans. So, unrestricted by those encumbrances, the gourmands who have their own online journal naturally get published first.
Hmm….Affogata is so-ooo 2001!
We saw chocolate mousse on menus across Tassie recently - isn’t that very ’70’s?
Which hatted restaurants weren’t invited, Jack? Send me an e-mail if you like.
Ran, What I want to know is what nigtclubs these reviewers have been hanging out in. I can’t see the association.
Well the answer about the Gourmet Traveller awards is that is was about the timing of Nobu opening and the actual guide will come out in October as usual - so no trying to compete with the Good Food Guide which I believe has its awards on 27 August with a vastly parred down invitation list. Only reviewers who did 10+ restaurants are invited although I guess I’m not welcome because of my Herald Sun associations.
Matthew, I’m thinking of adding some proper chop sticks to my kit bag together with a proper soup spoon. Isn’t that the best way?
Jak, it’s a very tight space and you should have seen the media bundle over the De Niro press conference today. Plus GT being owned now by private equity the pressure to cut costs must be almost as high as at The SmAge.
Duncan, of course the readership isn’t enough to threaten the papers but pehaps it’s psychological and they feel they need to get in earlier. One of the main American food writing associations recommends not going in for the first month and today was the official launch.
SF, I’m not sure that Nobu invited the reviewers in early or that they would have accepted as they prefer the illusion of being under cover - I went off my own bat because that’s what I do. I’m just telling people what the old world order was. I went off my own bat. Nice to hear you share my Affogata views but i’ve npticed so much of it everywhere. Interestingly, Matt Preston was having a go at me at the Nobu launch party tonight aboit double standards on my versus the old media reviews. More on that when I’ve forgoten about being in the same room with Naomi Robson - her eyes move, not much else.
@ Stickyfingers: absolutely well put. Different media, different conditions, possibilities, constraints, freedoms.
I think what they meant by nightclub feeling was due to the tables being all so close together and with so many people talking and the lights dimmed. And the bathrooms were so dimly lit I could barely see my face in the mirror (and hence my mascara which i thought might have run aftr eating a hot bit of chilli
Gosh so much to say…
Your right Duncan.
I think it is unfair to review too early (whether you are a print media reviwer or a blogger) and I also believe to offer a totally informed opinion you need to dine at the same estabilishment over a few weeks a multiple of times. I can’t understand how these reviewers can offer a balanced review considering they have been known to dine at some places up to 5 times before a printed review, doesn’t sound balanced and fair - whether the outcome is positive or negative.
Sticky fingers, invite sounds ‘free’ to me and I don’t think that sounds fair and balanced either, definately a bad basis for a review - or should it be called ‘editorial’ then?
Matthew, its only logical when you think about it, there are more local Victorian ‘hats’ to go around than National ’stars’. I’m sure there are dozens of restaurants that have hats that did not get stars, worse still there are hatted restaurants that don’t even rate a mention in Gourmets guide, thats an ouch. (Get the books out and work it out). Is it an indication of whats going to be in the new Age GFG out in a week, since Lethlean is the main man in both occasions for Victoria?
I don’t think the traditional media takes bloggers seriously at all, yet watch out because something is slowly happening, is it just me or are the restauranteurs more interested in blogs lately? Whether its email asking for negative comments to removed or acknowledging supporting comments. People are noticing…
Jack
Are they ever.
Jack, I think you’ll find that most reviews are based on only one visit, certainly with Stephen Downes. john Lethlean will sometimes manage to visit up to three or four times because as he will do a visit for The Age, The Melbourne Magazine and Gourmet Traveller.
You can guarantee that the Nobu visits were unannounced and payed for by the reviewers - ethics wouldn’t allow it any other way.
Although Lethlean is the Melbourne figurehead for Gourmet Traveller reviewing many other - including myself - review. You should bear in mind that there are 500 reviews in The Age good Food Guide and that GT only has a 100 or so Melbourne ones. The two systems are different. In some ways I’d say the GT guidelines and forms are more rigourous and the system is different, At the GFG each restaurant is given a score out of 20 and for anything with a hat I beleive two visits are made. The financial decisions are made by a committee of (I think) four. GT is different people.
As far as ten Sydney restaurants getting three stars I don’t think it matters at all. Very few Australian restaurants actually hit the top levels of service required for 3 michelin stars as we have a much more casual dining tradition here. Sydney ecnomically can support more fine dining and that’s great. the thing is i don’t want to eat at those restaurants every week nor could I afford to. In Melbourne we have a much greater diversity of restaurants and when I can be bothered to count up the numbers a few hundred more than Sydney.
Ah, the politics of food review!
For me, I personally prefer fellow bloggers review. With less pressure and more freedom, the reviews are more personal, and that’s what makes it good. Paper review is good to use to a certain extent, too.
And I was surprised by Lethlean’s review on Nobu. I have heard from a lot of trustworthy friends that the restaurant is really good. Will have to arrange my student financial budget for a meal there to experience myself!
And Ed, thanks for the reviewing on Attica Melbourne. I am planning to visit it soon.
Lethlean visited twice, Downes once. All before the restaurant officially opened…
Anh, you should book soon as on monday when the Good Food Guide comes out inevitably it will book out.
Ben, that must mean Lethlean has another review coming out in Gourmet Traveller and/or The Melbourne Mag and is probably due one more visit.
Yeah I’ve heard that Downes only visits once, perhaps thats why there is some respect loss in the industry for his reviews. I can’t say though, that I have worked in many places that would let him in…
In other life when I worked as a professional waiter, we once had John in 5 times before any reviews were published. I know that in some of the ‘institution’ places that they send in other reviewers that are not know to the management and staff to try and get an uneffected experience, I guess thats why you were reviewing Becco etc Ed?
In any case, a review before an offical opening whether they were invitied or not is a bit early, I think.
Jack
Jack, I’d have thought that people don’t let Stephen in because of some of his eccentricties (2 points off for paper napkins, which has been watered down recently) and the way he sometimes gives scores restaurants that expect high scores low. On that point he is writing for the Herald Sun non-foodie audience and puts value for money into the equation which brings the points down and the more expensive restaurants don’t like that.
On the topic of the numbers of times a reviewers visits I should have added to The Age, Melbourne Mag and Gourmet Traveller the Good food Guide and The Gourmet Traveller Food Guide to what I said above which allows John to visit five times but also puts him in the unhealthy position in being in an extremely dominant position in Melbourne. The sad truth is that there are budget constraints. Each reviewer has a budget and the Hun simply won’t pay for multiple visits.
The Age guide does multiple visists for all hatted restaurants. John won’t review Becco as he knows the people there too well. Yes, i did review Becco but it remains to be seen whether my review is diluted like many were in the Gourmet Traveller Guide to the point of being completely unrepresentative of some quite ordinary experiences.
From my web stats there is a demand from the public for early reviews but to be fair they should be pitched as first impressions rather than sticking the bot in.
Anyway, you’ve just given me an idea.
How do you react to that, Ed, having your reviews watered down? Has it been done to appease certain people who like their scores to be healthy?
I have to say, the adverse reaction to criticism in this town is wearing on me.
I totally appreciate the politics of it all, and yes it makes John very dominate in the reviewing stakes, I agree.
But what else is there to be done and where else do the ‘foodie’ people read about restaurants, if not the Herald Sun (his reviews are eccentric… to foodies)… local blogs.
I guess then there will be increasing demand for food bloggers that offer a complementary comparison to what Epicure says. Kind of like the way i can never commit to following one recipe, I like to compare and contrast, perhaps the blogging community is in a position to offer comparisons to what John writes about each week.
In regards to watered down reviews, lucky for the blog!! Or can’t you comment on a review you are paid for in your blog?
So whats the idea??
Jack
Matthew/Jack
The reality is that the restaurant guides are books of collective wisdom so while I may feel a place is pretty awful they still want a review. Hence my comments on certain place are changed from, for instance on some fusion food e “some are hits and others are misses” to “hit the nail right on the head”. Despite them missing my name out the GT Guide I guess I am honour bound - as with The Age Guide - not to have a go but I will do some posts next week.
There is adverse reaction to criticism across Australia and that’s another reason people don’t like Stephen. They should have Giles Coren, Jay Rayner or AA Gill over.
I too like to compare various views.
Absolutely… I guess Nobu could have gotten another comment like AA Gills on London Nobu, something about an 80’s perm?!?! hehehehe Part entertainment really though, yeah?
So what is the idea, Ed?
Jack
So Ed is the main reason for watering down reviews because they are afraid of a negative reaction from the restaurant, don’t want to critisise potential advertisers (the restaurant) or becuase they’re worried about defamation? When does a critical reivew constitue as crossing the line or defamation anyway? I’ve read some pretty hash reviews in the past.
@ Goldie: For discussion of defamation issues you could try the links from my brief piece http://www.syrupandtang.com/200706/reviews-and-defamation-australias-current-case/
From previous experience, The Age has been vary wary of anything that might be touchy (reviews of poor local products have been excised from one or two pieces I’ve submitted), but I get the feeling that John Lethlean is being permitted more latitude in recent years (or maybe it’s just coincidental that I’ve been noticing more negative reviews).
Even Lethlean’s negative reviews aren’t that negative. They’re more, shall we say, indifferent than incensed. He’s far more likely to say “this is not to my personal tastes” than “these people have tried to do me in” (which is over the top, even by my standards). Long gone are the days of food and wine writers who follow in the footsteps of Auberon Waugh: “The writer should never like a wine, he should be in love with it; never find a wine disappointing, but identify it as a mortal enemy, an attempt to poison him.” There are exceptions, of course, but not in this country. This is at once both a good and bad thing. If I ever get a shot at the big time, I’d like to think I could redress that somewhat. Here’s hoping.
I was looking for the right place to post this, and I guess it’s on topic for here.
Last night I was at VDM for dinner and I noticed a flash go off (only a little one) and I thought nothing of it at the time (it’s mid-week, probably a night out happy snap - even waitstaff at the best restaurants don’t mind taking a pic of the table for you I’m sure). Then the better half said that the young lady at the table over ny shoulder was taking pictures of the food. She thought this was a little odd and asked if I thought it was apropriate or allowed. When I said that she was probably going to blog about her meal my wife thought that was quite strange (she has no time for internet frivolity).
I imagine she asked and would have been told that it was OK because somewhere like VDM that changes dishes every week or so is’t going to get reviewed each month so the review that was last done by the Age is, as far as the food is concerned, out of date. Food blogs, while many are run/owned by amateur reviewers are going to provide access to more current point-in-time reviews.
Gregg
I was looking for the right place to post this, and I guess it’s on topic for here.
Last night I was at VDM for dinner and I noticed a flash go off (only a little one) and I thought nothing of it at the time (it’s mid-week, probably a night out happy snap - even waitstaff at the best restaurants don’t mind taking a pic of the table for you I’m sure). Then the better half said that the young lady at the table over ny shoulder was taking pictures of the food. She thought this was a little odd and asked if I thought it was apropriate or allowed. When I said that she was probably going to blog about her meal my wife thought that was quite strange (she has no time for internet frivolity).
I imagine she asked and would have been told that it was OK because somewhere like VDM that changes dishes every week or so isn’t going to get reviewed each month so the review that was last done by the Age is, as far as the food is concerned, out of date. Food blogs, while many are run/owned by amateur reviewers are going to provide access to more current point-in-time reviews.
Gregg
Duncan, I don’t think that case has changed anything - it is just a legal process right now and nothing has changed in defamation. In reality any action costs so much that it is hardly worth chasing a blogger but sometimes worth chasing a large media company. Most legal letters are merely a form of negotiation. And remember opinion isn’t defamation.
Mathew, I was disappointed for Auberon that he never got to eat koala. Nice quote.
Greg, that’s quite funny. Sometimes people give me strange looks. It will be interesting to see who it was. You are right there is more immediacy and the main reviewers only have 50 opportunities a year to review.
I feel uncomfortable about the attacks on writers of establishment food media. As I have said before, many things are beyond their control in the pursuit of an income in that field.
We live in litigious times. Comments will be watered down as a consequence by all but the bravest publications who prefer controversy to no publicity at all. Blogs have opened the path of outspoken opinion, lessening the necessity for print media to opine pugnaciously.
Food Guides may be edited by people interstate who have not visited the venue recently but have pre-conceived ideas, which they affirm no matter what the scribe may have assessed on their visit.
John, if you’re reading this, since you appeared on ‘My restaurant Rules’ as you know, it is virtually impossible for you to experience a restaurant meal in the way that the average customer would. For many of us who have followed your recommendations, we now often experience something quite different, whether better or worse. It must be tough for you, perhaps a dip into Ruth Reichl’s bag of tricks is in order - a funny moustache and polyester safari suit could come in handy?
Coming from a snap-happy family of Bon Vivants who have always photographed their food on special occasions, I have never been stopped from snapping away at the procelain with a macro lens. I was however stopped in a Saigon KFC taking photos of Mr Stickyfingers as we retreated from the 40degree heat into their arctic aircon.
Ed: I wasn’t saying anthing had changed as a result of that case - just responding to Goldie’s curiosity about defamation issues. Mind you, ‘opinion isn’t defamation’ doesn’t prevent worrisome legal threats and actual litigation, so bloggers don’t get to relax about it… especially if social media were to reach the heights that you feel are coming. (And it’s worth noting that most restaurant-reviewing cybernauts don’t choose their words carefully to distinguish ‘opinion’ from ‘representation as fact’.)
Stickyfingers: couldn’t agree more. The print media reviewers are cheap targets given the professional constraints and standards — things that few bloggers worry a hell of a lot about.
I loved your latest CityPod video dissertation on food blogging and on ‘the F-Word’. Unlike you I think Papa Stickyfingers embraces the F-Word because he loves the whole Jilly Cooper-ness of it all - eeew!
Jilly Cooper …we should get him together with Mrs Tomato