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Spanish chef Frank Comorra is a laugh. When he sent me a copy of his sell out Movida cookbook he signed it as the CEO of Ikea. He’d read by blogpost where I’d complained Movida didn’t conform to the stereotypical Spanish restaurant and owed more to the Swedish superstore than dark oak, Pablo Picasso or Anton Gaudi.Of course, I’m nothing but inconsistent. Shannon Bennett’s Bistro Vue I complain is a French theme park with its beams, French furniture and a funny little bag in which warm bread is served. Oh, I’m told they sometimes have an accordion player there too.In reality, I don’t mind theme parks, and Bistro Vue, which serves the best pear Tarte Tatin I have ever eaten, may usurp Sovereign Hill as my favorite in Australia. And I’ve grown to love a seat at the bar of Movida. The review starts here…
If you hadn’t realised it yet, Movida is quit possibly the most popular restaurant in Melbourne aside from Taco Bill’s. Lifestyle channel viewers voted Movida their fourth most favoured destination. And for anyone visiting Melbourne it is top of the list for lunch or supper.And so it was for my sugar daddy who, feeling down, popped a happy pill and decided he wanted lunch at Movida with me. An hour or so in seat 1A and a limousine ride later and he is plonked at the best spot in the restaurant- the bar - hoovering down a cold beer. Followed by a sherry, wine, beer and wine again. Eventually his head blurred as you can see in the pic above.Coincidentally, the bar is full of chefs who’ve come into town to see the Australian Open - including one from Sovereign Hill which makes my day.You won’t find food like this is any tapas bar or other Spanish restaurant in Australia. It is gobsmackingly good.At the bar we sticky beak at our neighbours food, jealous of the dishes we hadn’t ordered. By the end of lunch we are sharing.
Luckily, I have a sugar daddy to pay. We could afford to eat 20 grams of acorn fed Iberico ham that costs $1 a gram (I recommend financially challenged mortals buy it from a deli for under 48 cents a gram and eat it at home). We also downed two 500ml bottles of stunning Roda 1 (which don’t seem to be on the wine list) costing nearly $300.The food? Two absolute stunners.
There is the famous Ortiz anchovy (above) on a thin crouton and topped with a smoked tomato sorbet. At $4.50 each it is within the reach or most mortals and is a dish that shows real innovation.
Second was Cucina (above), air cured wagyu beef thinly sliced (a bit like a bresaola) with a truffled potato foam topped with a poached egg at $17. This is a superb use of the magnificantly marbled Wagyu which is fast become the most misused meat in Australia in other poorer quality restaurants. And there is something aboutthe mix of flavoursome meat, earthy truffle, potato and egg that is meant to be.I defy you to visit Movida without ordering these dishes.
Our only mistake was the timing of a dish of diced multicolored tomatoes topped with white anchovies (above). An acid dish, it is a palate cleanser and should have been ordered first.The dilemma here is to whether to stop and bore you with a list of every single dish and finally telling you whether or not to visit the restaurant. On balance I’ll show you the pictures and let you make your own mind up.
Vieira, jamon y espuma 4.50Half shell scallop oven baked with jamon and potato foam
Morcilla 13.50Grilled house made black pudding in the Burgos style thickened with rice and spices
Bistec tartar de wagyu 17.50Spicy steak tartare of raw, grass fed Wagyu beefThe review ends here
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{ 16 comments… read them below or add one }
Ed those anchovy on thin crouton are a taste sensation. Andy was our waiter (he may be a part owner?) at my last visit and he delivered great customer service to accompany the wonderful food.
Must say I was stunned at the four small pieces of Iberico ham that arrived for $20…..but worth every dollar.
Oh God I love Movida. Seeing the photo of the Jamon makes me want to go there now! But i am going to tempura hajime tonight so all is not lost.
Mustang, the service was great and my sugardaddy was stunned by the taste. They’ve got is so right at the moment.
Barbara, worth $20 but even better at home for $10!
Ran, jealous.
We tried to “drop in” one night for dinner but there was no way to get a seat for another 2 hours
Ed, This place had THE best service I have EVER had anywhere. I know its a big call but its true. Two winemaking buddies, another mate whos an ex chef now a designer & we made a pretty credentialled & experienced dining troupe.
Well, one of my friends is extremely knowledgable on all things vinous & dosn’t suffer fools gladly so I was a little anxious when the banter started from our waiter, who turned out to be a part owner, as it happens.
Cutting to the chase, we were all eating out of his hands by the end of the evening, ate extremely well & drank some amazing bev. My mate eventually deferred to the bloke after he like us were completely impressed with his professionalism & charm, which is a rare thing beleive me! All in all, I cannot speak highly enough of this place, its a real standard bearer in many ways.
Cin, I’ve tried a few times to book on the phone and had no luck. I think it’s booked out most nights unless you arrive early.
Gobbler, I probably didn’t emphasise the service enough as it was so good we didn’t notice it until afterwards. It is stunning and probably the future of dining (without mentioning the dreaded tapas).
We were at Movida for lunch last Thursday (second week of the Aust Open) and after being first to arrive and last to leave were truely swept away with the place. the anchovy crostini was impecabble, the sorbet was far redder than the one pictured and just gleamed.
absolute standout was the braised beef cheek in a pedro ximinez sauce on cauliflower puree. the best piece of meat i’ve ever had.
What a tease Ed! What I wouldn’t do for your sugardaddy! I have to ask, do you think it’s a good value dining experience otherwise? I’ve been tossing around the idea of going for awhile and heard mixed things. After paying a fraction of the price in Spain for tapas I can’t quite bring myself to do it although there are undeniably some sensational creations on offer. I’m curious as to whether you think the dishes are good value for money?
Simon, imaybe I need to fiddle with my white balance
I saw John Lethlean mentioned that oxcheek somewhere - we weren’t reading the menu which is silly of us. Everybody seems to have had possitive experiences here which bodes well.
Truffle, I think it is value, avoiding the Jamon. Most restaurants of this level are charging $20-30 for starters and $35-40 for mains. Most tapas are well under $10 and the raciones as they are called under $20. Three- four tapas each would fairly easily be under $20 and a couple of 2 raciones around $35 which is probably ample for most people. Of course, it all depends on your appetite. The wines are dear and there are a handful around $45 but most are over $50 and $9 a glass. The half bottle of La Goya Manzanilla sherry at $35 is a good choose to sip. I think you’ll find the level of food at a much higher level to what is generally available in Spain.
a) I’m jealous Ed, I want a sugar daddy who takes me to Movida too.
b) I just bought Frank Comorra’s Movida book at Myer on sale for 40% off. I’ve already made the creme caramel from it and it was fantastic, got so many compliments from friends for it. I’m looking to making a lot of the other recipes, but don’t know where to get some ingredients. Do you know of any Spanish grocery stores where I can buy the Spanish sweet paprika, salted cod, chorizo etc?
c) My two dining experiences at Movida were both so positive, great service, great food.
d) Cindy, I too have tried to make bookings here so many times without success. I think you need to be ultra organised and book a month in advance. Otherwise just rock up early and try to get a seat at the bar.
Thanh, I have to get cooking but right now am avoiding recipes that make me want to have a glass of Tinto. The best place is Casa Iberica 25 Johnston Street, Fitzroy (Mel ref 2C A7) which is just across from Brunswick St on the Lygon St side. I think also you will find a lot of th eingredients in the markets, especially Victoria.
Thanks for the address Ed. I will go check this place out. I really really want to make the Steak Tartare and I need that Spanish sweeet paprika.
That’s right, you’re doing the non booze month. Poor you.
Must, Control, Self. No, Booze. D’oh.
oh you’re making me homesick. Bodega here is just not the same….
Stephanie,
Last year I had the best soft shelled prawns ever at Bodega and although very good just not the same. And did you see the good news that MoVida is opening next door in April, although I wonder if that will alleviate the problem of getting a table as it is just so popular.
I love Movida. Everything is sensational. Rock up early and you can probably get a seat at the bar as they don’t take bookings for the bar.
Love the anchovies, love the cucina and really love the braised beef cheek (as per Simon). A sensational Melbourne restaurant.