Sometimes the difficultly is deciding whether to soften the blow. It’s the new year and and heaven knows, despite being miserable now, I may as well be nice.
Climb the dodgy staircase and enter through the plain fire door to a stunning room. On a sunny evening at The Panama Dining Room (Level 3, 231 Smith Street, Fitzroy) the light is astonishing. It illuminated everything.
The plastic laundry baskets reconstituted into lamp shades are clear for all to see. I can spot the cheap Ikea lamps hanging over the bar. The second hand fittings.I’m pretty sure the high table is made from a floating floor (although I could be wrong). Most of the furniture is cheap and second hand. The fit out was a cheap as you could get. The furniture mismatches.
But despite the tat, it’s not grotty. It is superb and I love it.
No wonder Vogue Entertaining and Travel picked as a hot spot last year. It has funk, plays great music and most importantly of all has a free pool table.
Equal to the fitout is our waitress. I fairly quickly accuse her of tricking me into ordering some kind of new fangled deep fried Camembert.It was Gruyere in a sort of brioche deep-fried shell. I now can, unembarrassed, say I enjoyed it.
But wait, it gets better. The starters are dirt cheap. A stunning chilled Yoghurt and cucumber soup (pictured below) was small but only cost $12. Calling the kingfish a ceviche, with a carrot shaved to look like smoked salmon, was stretching the point. But who cares. It was excellent and only cost $15 bucks.
The mains are dirt cheap too. That’s if you really want them, though. Tortellini ($21) topped with a deep fried zucchini flower are bland, bland, bland.The roast chicken ($23) is moist and okay.
But if the bread and tomato salad featured cardboard soaked in water it would be an improvement. The bread was stale-soggy and neither Jak or I really wanted to eat it. Only last week a ate a far superior version made by the M and partner of a major law firm – only hours before she gave birth.
The shame of this is that the Panama has so much going for it. The mains need to be mended, perhaps redesigned or a least tasted by chef.
{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
yes panama room has become ‘the regular’ during 2007 for us.
one big reason is the fact we can usually get a table after doing the fri arvo ring around the usual suspects that are always full.
and like you mention, the prices are another reason to come back. we are talking pub prices – not withstanding the comments above – for above pub quality.
some of my favourties the past year – asparagus with brioche. i remember an interesting entree of boiled egg with rice. roasted fish main is usually spot on. lamb cassoulet was a winner. vegetable sides always intriguing – okra w tomatoe. steak, imported cheese platter and oysters are also regulars for us. (oh yeah the french fries!)
also an interesting wine list – one of the best pinot noir of the year here – ashton hills, adelaide hills.
variability of service is the one thing that i think that can be improved. quick for orders to be taken, but slow in food delivery at times.
regardless, offers better food and atmosphere than the pub, and is cheaper and easier to get into than the trendy addresses. (but they are all noisy!)
cheers
ozmouse
Ozmouse, all good points. I’d like to see the food a little simpler and better and then they will have everything – the potential is there. I can see if busier the service could slip. Still it’s a great place nd wish we had something similar across the river.
Ed
I had a stunning meal and fantastic service back in August http://eatingwithjack.blogspot.com/2007/08/panama-dining-room.html
But went back about 6 weeks later and our waiter had less an an idea, and the food wasn’t as inspired.
But… love the ‘north-of-the-river’ feel that I am unsure weather we can replicate down by the beach. I’d give it a go again as Diane is a skilled chef (no excuses for seasoning issues though!), just let down by a carefree FOH crew.
Jack
Jack, I remembered your post while there and I have friends who’ve had great food. I was wondering about the space above the DIY shop on Barkly Street which has a license but some issues about being a late night drinking venue. Or perhaps some warehouse around Greeves St. I’ll be back and look forward to seeing what Diane does in their new venue of Brunswick St. Despite all that the Yoghurt Soup was brilliant.
Places like Panama are what I miss about Melbourne. Be thankful for it. Nothing like it, remotely, here.
Stephanie, I’m told that councils are getting tough on new small bars here while they are relaxing control in Sydney – there is hope.
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