The inside guide to eating and drinking in Melbourne. Since 2005.

iPhoners of the world unite at Gills Diner

by Ed

Gill's Diner

For somewhere that is so difficult to find, Gills Diner is awfully busy. Blink or become distracted for even a moment and you’ll have missed the skinny Gills Alley.
And two of the three people I have met there did just that, arriving late after circling the Elizabeth St end of Little Collins St.
Perhaps all these people who make it on time to Gills have hacked iPhones, which even without GPS can triangulate your position and guide you to a destination with Google Maps. It wouldn’t surprise me as Gill’s is a very cool place, the valve amplified Vinyl (Morissey!) being the first clue. The lack of website the second.
With the windowed division between dining room and kitchen it puts me in mind of some Bauhaus inspired refectory, with plain wood tables and the sort of chairs that would have once been at home in a down at heel college.
What it lacks in sound absorbing paneling it has in character and charm not to forget an excellent bitter herbed vermouth on the wine list. I wasn’t really paying attention so I can’t give you the name.
On my first visit I was with somebody who from now on will only be known as “Big Red” for his rapacious taste for reds and the unreasonably voilence, mostly Shiraz, he forces on me. We ate a whole pig I think.
On my second visit I was lucky enough to be with my pouting personal sommelier, who all of a sudden has developed the conscience of a locavore which is at odds with her palate of a Burgundy (Barolo or Rioja for that matter) whore.
I’m taking it as given that the list will be fashionably quirky when I eventually come to read it properly.
The food is a squint away on a Blackboard.
Oysters, freshly shucked natch. The rustic terrine is the size of a doorstep, garnished with miniature gherkins and enough for three or four.
The mains are meaty, plenty of pig, and corned beef is a fixture. There is one fish dish.
Like I said I wasn’t really paying attention. The food is good but doesn’t photograph well. Have you ever noticed that about rustic food? Lasagne especially (which isn’t on the menu here) always turns out looking like a cow pat.
Anyway, if you haven’t already, get an iPhone (or put your name down for one) and visit.

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{ 7 comments… read them below or add one }

William Stewart June 15, 2008 at 7:09 pm

Thanks for this one. I found it the other week, but it was too busy at lunchtime, so I had to leave. Very busy indeed for such an out of reach place.

Here’s the map for future reference ;-)

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=360+little+collins+street,+melbourne&sll=-37.815497,144.962862&sspn=0.00406,0.006706&ie=UTF8&ll=-37.814666,144.96269&spn=0.00812,0.013411&z=16&iwloc=addr

Ran June 16, 2008 at 3:24 pm

You had me at valve amplified vinyl playing Morissey. I have to try this place now!

Nikki June 19, 2008 at 12:04 pm

haha, I have a hacked iPhone and I love Gills Diner

Ed June 19, 2008 at 11:36 pm

William, Go back and try the vermouth.

Ran, Morrisey vs The smiths?

Nikki, so I’m right for once.

Ran June 24, 2008 at 9:48 am

The smiths. Johnny marr rocked.

Ed June 24, 2008 at 10:11 am

Echo and the Bunnymen? I’spose Joy Division would be a bit grim over supper.

Ida July 30, 2008 at 1:01 pm

I went here just two weeks ago and enjoyed the most delicious lunch of Snapper! Can’t wait to get back there. Yes it’s busy, and the food took a little while but thoroughly worth the wait!

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