If there’s one thing I’ve learnt writing about the opening of restaurants is that it rarely goes to plan. As a writer it is easy to be caught out. Openings can be delayed by months or even years. And so it was that on Thursday the 26th I rocked up to Cumulus Inc (45 Flinders Lane +61 3 9650 1445) for supper to find the chef (Andrew McConnell of Three, One , Two and formerly Circa The Prince) and architect, his wife Pascale Gomes-McNabb, and the smell of drying varnish.
Luckily I had my mate James, my construction consultant, to sniff out the joint. The level of detail impressed him especially the rubber knobs under the chairs and bar stools protecting the wooden floor (which was itself damaged in construction delaying the launch before the last minute delay). There’s the two bars flanking the main space, marble beside the open kitchen and an impressive specially processed steel bar by the, um, bar, which is lit by the large metal warehouse windows.
The next night the Martini Monster found it closed also while I was still crammed into the space the size of a matchbox in a tram. It left us to score two lucky bar seats at Movida (although the MM wasn’t so lucky with the maitre d’ she handed her mobile number to; we’ll never be able to return).
As I write this Cumulus still hasn’t got its liquor license but at least it is open for breakfast and lunch (although not supper) and some pretty good coffee.
I managed to find the joint open for Saturday breakfast on a recent scouting expedition in search of the perfect all-terrain underpants. To appreciate Cumulus Inc you need to appreciate what is known as moderation. I’m fed up with breakfasts in Melbourne because most cafes show no restraint. The portions are huge and I usually leave half of what’s on my plate. I’d pay the same for half the food and my betting is that a few others would two.
What I want is not one huge bowl of gunk but a proper breakfast, which usually means three courses.
This is exactly the sort of breakfast McConnell provides. I start with some fruit, melon and strawberries (okay, I know it’s not the season but they were good).
I then move onto sardines, five trimmed fillets on a square of toast, the seasoning and garnish restrained. Jak has a perfectly cooked eggwith smoked salmon, dill and the interesting addition of sorrel which has a lemony zing.
At this point a work colleague of Jak’s arrives sometime before noon. It turns out Cumulus has a similar breakfast demarkation to McDonald’s and they have to wait until midday to order lunch (quail nicely presented on a skewer and some great looking pork belly) which like everywhere else nowadays is to share.
The food appears to be good value and you’d shouldn’t expect trencherman-sized portions. What you get is food prepared with the kind of attention to detail that you’d expect from the chef.
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Looks great, I’ll be interested to check this place out.
I agree with you about breakfast portions at cafes – when I go out for breakfasts I usually end up ordering one pastry or muffin for $3.50~$4.50 and a coffee because I just can’t handle a massive breakfast, and I hate to waste food. Unless of course they happen to do exceptional or interesting cooked breakfasts… which are hard to find locally.
xox Sarah
It should eventually be an exciting addition to an area of town already plumped with choice. But don’t expect to be able to make bookings – it will just be turn up when you’re hungry and get some great food.
If you can’t get in there you will soon be able to try Frank Camorra’s new sherry bar for some tapas and pinchos and sherry straight from the barrel.
Sarah, I hate that waste with all meals.
Thermomixer, I should have mentioned that they only take bookings for large groups. of course, we are assuming there won’t be a big delay on the Movida opening. It’s already looking good.
What are the matchsticks of garnish on the egg? Apple?
I agree with you on portion sizes, and I’ve noticed that at many cafés the unnecessarily large portions extend to lunch and dinner as well. Lots of people seem to love it though. Perhaps I’m in the minority (I’d wager that food blog readers/writers don’t necessarily represent the dining majority), but I’d happily take half a plate if it meant an increase in the quality of ingredients.
All. Terrain. Underpants.
Planning and arctic expedition in the fancy-pants? Or will you need them in Dunkeld and Birregurra? Can’t see you kite boarding in them.
Hopefully they’re not called for when supping at Cumulus.
Putting them together with ’space the size of a matchbox in a tram’, ‘trencherman sized’ and ‘the maitre d’ she handed her mobile number to’ reminds me of culinary expeditions with the Priscilla half of my posse. **Sigh**
The belly pork looks identical to the one I get from Linx at South Melbourne Market. Apparently they wholesale it – I also saw an impressive line up of marinated ducks drying there before being readied for the oven over the weekend, definitely wholesale quantities.
I would be extreeeemely suprised if Andrew ordered in belly pork already prepared. Having attended a cooking demo with him on Sunday, and many more before, that is not his practice. Jamon, yes. Belly pork – I don’t think so.
Just joking of course ThermoMinx, but you’d be surprised how many venues do actually bring in items from Asian wholesalers. After all it takes a certain kind of oven to do the Red Roasted meats to proper effect.
I love this new fashion for belly pork. Years ago occidentals wouldn’t touch it and was a nice cheap cut relished by Asians. We crunched our way through tons until you lot started to mimic us – LOL! Now stay away from shoulder pork – we need it for Cha Sui
I had lunch there yesterday and have to say it was great and the space was fantastic as well.
Hoping to pop in for breakie on saturday morning as well, so will post after that.
I’d recommend the wagyu bresaola with remoulade and the mussel and cucumber salad.
Jack
OK, stickyfingers, now I understand you’ve got a sense of humour too!! But yes, I agree about some establishment’s short cuts. My first dish at a reputable restaurant in Church St was red roasted pork and vietnamese bun noodles and fried shallots. I could have walked to Victoria Street and gathered the same ingrediants at 10% of the price. If us round eyes are taking the belly pork, you can have the shoulder & I’ll take the neck meat.
Tim, the matchsticks are apple. You are right that some people want these huge portions. Perhaps all those empty imigration camps could be made into food reeducation camps.
Sticky, Just checking the versatility of Merino which is meant to keep warm in the winter and cool in summer. Just a personal hobby.
Sticky/Thermo, Iknow what you mean. Sometimes itseems easier and cheaper to buy it and take it home. i sometimes two that hide away andeat several ducks at once.
I just happened to wander on the first day of service. Totally enjoyed my salt cod soup in a glass, and shared Jerusalem Artichoke Fritters served with a lemony hollandaise and a great beetroot salad (with mint, apple, walnuts, lentils and crumbled goats cheese on yoghurt (it worked!)
Returned yesterday and added the pork belly to the list (couldn’t resist eating things I really enjoyed last week). The preserved lemon served with the pork belly cut through any sense of naughty ‘fat’. Good coffees both times.
Watch out for a Epicure review soon. John L was dining there at lunch time yesterday.
I will return again!
Drove past the new Movida tonight – Frank and crew were hard at it, so am presuming it is trading?
Heather I suppose with JL being Melbourne’s most prolific eater it’s surprsiing we all don’t bump into him more.
Sticky, I passed it last week and it was looking good. I think it’s been open for almost a week. Pat’s been there:
http://cookingdownunderblog.blogspot.com/2008/07/movida-ing-on.html
The place is now buzzing every lunch time! I stopped by today to try the take away food. Had a delicious roll with procuitto, cheese and something that tasted like mild mustard. Good stuff! Last week I tried their spicy cauliflower and the “cracked wheat” salad. Loved both dishes.
Like Cumulus Inc a lot & can’t wiat to try out breakfast there, always loved his brekkies @ 312 & circa
I have plans to have dinner there on Friday. But after all the rave reviews I just couldn’t wait to experience it for myself. So I wandered in on Tuesday for an anticipated leisurely breakfast. But I was very disappointed! Firstly it took awhile before the waitress took my order, then I waited nearly 30mins before my meal arrived. The egg was far to hot. And I had to ask for a knife to butter my toast! So now the question is do I go for dinner on Friday or not?
Just had lunch there with a few friends. Half our meal showed up; the rest took about another half an hour. When we asked where it had gotten to, we were treated rather brusquely. In general, the staff were fairly stand-offish. But the food really was delicious.
Super presentation of super food. The place has a friendly yet sophisticated feel with sensational service. The young chefs in the kitchen worked their butts off to produce a spectacular feast – in every sense of the word. The food was seriously good and all round it was a magical experience.
I had the egg and salmon thing this week with apple sticks yadda yadda and twas very good. He has upgraded the egg compared to your picture. It is now a wanky 65/65 egg, poached in shell at 65 C for 65 mins, for a nice just soft and almost fudgy all over effect. Where else should I be breakfasting during my Melbourne visit the next couple ofweeks, Ed?
Welcome back Jamie. I think that was a 65/65 egg we had too. You could try Nacional on Mills St Albert Park run by the Syracuse people. Nineteen Squares on Blessington St isn’t bad but it’s not a full brekky. I’ll ask on Twitter.