Wickens at the stove at Interlude.
One of the big disappointments last year was the closing of Robin Wickens two hat restaurant Interlude after its owner Apples and Pears decided it wasn’t viable (although the company is opening another restaurant on Vue de Monde’s doorstep).
The good news is that Wickens’, a friend to bloggers, food is back on the menu although by the sounds of it toned down when next week he starts his new gig at The Deanery, what used to be a car park on Bligh Place, a laneway between Elizabeth and Queen Streets off Flinders Lane. This week Wickens starts looking at suppliers for the restaurant and bar which is better known for its wine and wine storage for patrons than its food.
Wickens says that he will be moving away from the so-called molecular cuisine and concentrating on using its techniques on modern Australian food. “I wanna leave the molecular gastronomy thing,” he said. “A lot of the stuff we were doing at Interlude got lost in that. I want to do modern Australian but still using water baths and that kind of thing.
“Its a long term project building the kitchen, the team and the equipment.”
At Interlude Wickens won his hats within a year of opening but it always suffered from quiet days mid-week because of its location on Brunswick Street.
The Deanery is smack bang in the middle of the CBD and has a really good bar – I’m told. A lot of people just pop in for a drink and he’s going to start wooing that crowd with bar snacks.
“Obviously you need another revenue stream for a restaurant. If you have a really good bar trade you can afford to have a quiet Wednesday night in the restaurant.”
While many of Wickens’ staff have picked-up jobs around town, he hopes that his former pastry Pierre Roelofs – and possibly others – will join him after a brief, ahem, interlude working in Spain.
More news
Meanwhile this week, news emerged of a third offshoot of the hugely popular Movida franchise according to The Frank Report.
On the 10th (Tuesday) Andrew McConnell’s reincarnation of Three, One, Two on Gertrude St, Cutler & Co opens while two days later Greg Malouf is back on the menu at the new Momo at the Hyatt.
And more
Meanwhile as first noted by George Biron and Steve, Alan Scott the master wood fired oven builder died in Tasmania in late January. You can check out what The Mercury (link from Rita) and The New York Times had to say about him.
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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
Hanging out for Momo to open it’s doors!
Wasn’t Robin Wickens’ menu at Interlude a complete rip off of several other restaurants overseas?? (WD 50 ring a bell?? Alinea…?) No wonder Interlude closed down if the chef can no longer develop new dishes.
Penelope, I think you are being a little unfair on him and the restaurant didn’t fail for that reason alone. Robin was simply whipped in public by The Age. You’ll find most top chefs have dishes from other top restaurants on their menus without acknowledging it which is why it was unfair to single out Robin .
Penelope , I agree with Anon, you are not a little, but very unfair regarding your comment about Interlude and Robin Wicken .
Have you ever been to Interlude ?
I think Melbourne is just not ready for that style of CUISINE .
What Robin did was very good, but time consuming .
I ate at interlude in May 2008 and had what I have come to discribe as one of the best dining experiences that I have ever had. The staff were fantastic and food was just wonderful. I have just dined at a London restaurant with 2 michelin stars and, while it was very good, it was still not as good as the dining experience I had at Interlude with Robin Wickens, and it cost me about twice the price. I will definitely be tracking Robin down when I return to Melbourne and would urge others to disregard Penelope’s comment and go and decide for yourself.
Although I am from Sydney, I spent a lot of time eating at top Melbourne restaurants . My meals at Interlude were by far the best dining experience I have ever encountered. In my opinion, Robin Wickens is the best chef in Australia. Last week I ate at the Deanery and it was fantastic. I had is Minesstrone Soup, Crab & Corn, Maple Duck and Venison Beetroot dishes. All top quality and well presented. Well worth the price.
Contrary to what Robin says in this article, I wish that he would go back to his “molecular” cuisine because he does it as well if not better than anyone I know.