The inside guide to eating and drinking in Melbourne. Since 2005.

How I found a table a Collingwood’s Gigibaba

by Ed

It was an epic journey from St Kilda up to Gertrude St and then down to Gigibaba at Smith St followed by an epic meal. We left at 5.30 in the evening to ensure we would find two seats in this hot Turkish joint, arriving at the working class tea time of 6.15pm. Along the way we bumped into various well known food characters on Gertrude St. I even considered moving nearby.
My paternal grandfather made a similar epic journey to Turkey in 1915. On the way he met and helped bury on Skyros the poet Rupert Brooke.
Edward Charles finally made it to Turkey. But as is often the case when our family go abroad he quickly returned home with a tummy bug, to be precise dysentery.
My last trip to Istanbul was enjoyable but not for the food, despite the Lonely Planet Guide declaring:

“It is well worth travelling to Turkey just to eat. Turkish cuisine is thought by many to rank with French and Chinese as one of the world’s great basic cuisines.”

Luckily nothing awful happened with the preparation or as a consequence of the food at Gigibaba (102 Smith Street, Collingwood
+61 9486 0345) . But we left waddling and with sore tummies.
I may have lost count but for $55 each we were served 22 savoury courses, three sweet and a coffee – to top off our liquid refreshment, selected from a compact list of Australian and European wines.

At several points I began panicking. First because I was faced with about a dozen small plates on the table and I was overwhelmed by the onslaught as more arrived. Then it was because I’d reached the Mr Creosote point. If one more small second-hand plate of food was sent out I was very likely to explode and leave a nasty mess on the oriental carpet that is cut to fit the far wall of the room.
That doesn’t mean there is anything wrong with the food. It is good and most savoury courses are one of those Mediterranean variations of olive oil, tomato, peppers, oily fish, lamb, olive, eggplant and so on.

If anything we ordered wisely choosing the $55 degustation. On the journey up on the 96 Tram I twittered my intentions, and later that there were some spaces available, with the following responses:

“Good Luck!!! Always difficult, even for us locals. Enjoy the worlds most expensive hommos.”
“Watch your jacket, I had mine stolen from the coat rack by the front door.”
“Maybe all the orange-t-shirts who used to go there were scared off when Larissa Dubecki muscled them out of the queue…”
“Perhaps they’re scared off by the prices.”

The food we were sent could have fed three or four instead of two which makes it great value.
The wine is too and I especially like their attitude to it. Everything is available by the glass up through various carafe sizes to a whole bottle. This means to my twitter widow’s surprise – and mine – I drank less than usual.

And so it was time to return to St Kilda. After the first short leg of the journey home I laid the twidow in the recovery position in the courtyard of the Gertrude St Enoteca smoking a whole pack of Matt Prestons aka Peter Stuyvesant. My own resuscitation was attempted with the good part of a case of Averna.

Still early, we trekked on across the city and eventually down Hosier Lane beneath the foul smelling extractor fan from Movida Next Door.
And as in the custom in these situations, we bumped into Dani Valent plus one, fresh from her own epic with the altogether much more expensive Greg Malouf at Momo.
DoI wish I’d been there? Yes. But Gigibaba is less than half the price.

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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

Injera May 29, 2009 at 4:00 pm

I can’t believe I haven’t been there yet. No excuses! It’s so close to work. Must get there before the city goes into swine flu lockdown…

(Matt Preston’s Wiki bio really does match the rather florid picture, doesn’t it?)

steve May 29, 2009 at 5:11 pm

Hi Ed, heard so much about this place. My uncle who’s a sparky would have a heart attck at all those lightglobes though!
You have crossed the great divide of the Yarra! I thought St Kilda-ites never ventured that far into Collingwood territory or has this all changed after six years away?

Amanda May 31, 2009 at 7:44 pm

Wow. I love Gigibaba, and am definitely getting the degustation next time. Must remember not to go with my friend who’s allergic to seafood!

Sas June 5, 2009 at 1:00 pm

Ha. Me and my family had to execute similar tactics to get a table. I jogged over from uni to arrive by 6pm (first customer in the place) and then reserved the back table for six of us. Luckily the fam all arrived shortly after. Might have been embarrassing otherwise.

Tragic, yet effective.

Magnus Cormack McManamey December 22, 2009 at 10:20 pm

Magnus Cormack McManamey
December 22, 2009
I tried to get a meal tonight at this smart good looking dining room. I was greeted by a smug, aging waiter who told us they had run out of food and were no longer serving meals. At 9:30 pm on a tuesday I thought it unusual, but the week before christmas I gave it the benefit of the doubt. We decided to enjoy a glass of wine at the bar anyway. We asked for a piece of cheese and were also declined nor offered anything else. Shortly after, a family also entered and were sat and fed. When we queried this the female maitre d said “They are my friends”. I’m happy to cop “the kitchen’s closed” or a straight “no”, but feeding someone else after you have said that is insulting even as a stranger. Bad hospitality, C you next tuesday Glass of wine was good! M

Tommy February 22, 2010 at 3:28 pm

Never, ever again. If this is what cool dining is all about, then I’m staying home. The service was so bad it actually became funny. Shocking attitude from a group of disinterested and what looked to be totally over it employees.

Greeted with a shrug, seated with a snarl and didn’t quite make ordering our food because we were told off for not ordering drinks quickly enough (within one minute of being seated). We also got into trouble by requesting to sit at the front vacant table for 4 and not on the unlit table for 12 (there were only 4 of us! ) at the back of the restaurant.

After 5 consecutive “excuse me’s” the waiter who was standing next to us finally agreed to grace us with his interest, only to wonder off midway into one of our guests asking him about the menu.

Truly a deeply embarrassing experience for myself and for my guests. No food due to the worst service I’ve received in Melbourne. Literally could stand it any longer.

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